Let’s start with some back story: my back hurts. A lot.
Sometime in April, while doing absolutely nothing out of the ordinary, I started getting some very uncomfortable pain in my back when I tried to bend over to do anything (no jokes, y’hear?!). This proved rather inconvenient here in China, land of one meter tall brooms and sinks at mid-thigh height. I tried stretching; I tried resting; I tried exercising; I even tried cursing it away – all to no avail – but it was a dull pain, so I dealt with it.

Granted, unlike this guy with the stuffed panda sneakers, I was unable to bend over to tie my shoes.
Late in May, things took an unexpected turn early on a Saturday morning as I tried to get out of bed to get ready for work (“tried” being the operative word here). Shooting pains followed and an involuntary yelp of pain escaped my lips, waking my husband on what was probably his only day to sleep in that week (sorry, honey). Shuffling and grimacing commenced for the remainder of the weekend, and again I tried everything I could think of to make the pain go away (heat, cold, massage, fire-cupping, grumbling…).

What is fire-cupping, you ask? Well, someone takes glass jars, holds fire inside them to burn out the oxygen and then quickly places them on your skin where they seal via a vacuum. And then you get to look like this.
The intensity of the pain did wane after a few days, and it returned to that dull ache, but it never fully went away. Well, after a couple of months of this, I decided I had had enough and my husband and I embarked this week on what I think I shall call the “Epic Hospital Endeavour of 2012.”
Now kids, this is not my first time at the rodeo which is the medical system in China. I’ve had a couple of other experiences being sick and needing to consult a doctor to get proper medication. The following list of clues have been gathered from observations on my handful of visits to one here in our city (also, if you’re one of those expats who lives in a fancy big city with fancy modern hospitals where people are all civilized and stuff…you’re spoiled and not brave at all and I don’t want to hear about it).
I should also mention that I don’t have an awful lot of experience with hospitals or medical care in any other country, including Canada. I was an invincible monster when I lived there…OK Mom, stop laughing…maybe that’s a bit of an exaggeration. The truth is more along the lines of I got sick kind of often, but I was usually too stubborn to go to the doctor unless I absolutely couldn’t take it anymore (hey, that’s really not that different from how I behave in China!).
Anyway, my point is that I don’t really know what I’m comparing the Chinese system to, but I like to imagine that all North American hospitals resemble the ones on TV shows like ‘ER’ and ‘House’ – clean, bright, attractive people (both employees and patients), and the chaos always being well-controlled and orderly (let me continue believing it, people, don’t burst my bubble). Oh, and people always get better (yeah, I know that isn’t the reality).
But just in case you should wake up and find yourself in a hospital one day, unaware of exactly where you are, here are a list of clues to help you ascertain whether or not you’re currently in a Chinese hospital.
- You don’t go to a clinic to visit a doctor – they are all located in the hospital. This means that, as a foreigner, you feel rather ridiculous having to go to the hospital for things as innocuous as a sore back or a sinus infection.
- The young girls who staff the information desk on the main floor wear bright red uniforms including jaunty little hats, reminiscent of old school flight attendants.
- People are smoking everywhere, but are especially congregated beneath the “No Smoking” signs (the same goes for the “No Cell Phone Usage” signs and the “No Loud Noise” signs – these are where you can find the majority of the card-playing cell phone shouters).
- Families of patients, not nurses or orderlies, take care of their loved ones’ needs, sleeping in hallways and stairwells so they can be nearby to run downstairs to purchase medicine, change IV bags, bring food to eat, and whatnot (these people make up a large majority of the smoking, card-playing cell phone shouters, by the way).
- You are stared at more than any other place you’ve ever visited in the entire country of China (thanks to the likelihood that the above families are from the nearby county, and thus have never seen a foreigner in their lives).
- Most of the people wearing face masks are not doctors (it’s also worth noting that most of the people wearing face masks are also not the ones with the nasty-sounding coughs).
- There are more babies with IVs than the total number of babies you’ve ever seen in your lifeup to that point (IV drips are the treatment method of choice for approximately 80% of doctors here – you have to quite adamantly push for an alternative if you don’t want to sit with a needle in you for a few hours a day for the next few days).
- Despite being a country with a population of nearly 1.5 billion people, there are only chairs for two of those people in a waiting area (if you’re lucky and if there is, in fact, a waiting area at all).
- There is, as everywhere else in China, no hot water to wash your hands anywhere (oh, and the bathrooms are just as nasty as public toilets on the street, which might explain the man who chose to hold his infant grandson over the garbage can located directly outside of the men’s bathroom to pee rather than take him 5 steps inside to do his business).
- You never visit a general practitioner because they don’t seem to exist. Every doctor you visit is a specialist, and you choose whichever ones you think fit your problem. Also, you don’t have a regular doctor you visit who knows your history – it’s just whoever fits the bill on the day. There is also seemingly no rhyme or reason to the location of the specialist’s offices – the orthopaedic office may very well be next door to the reproductive assistance office and just down the hall from a respiratory specialist.
- You don’t make an appointment to see a doctor; instead, you deal with it in the same way one would deal with rush seating at a concert or boarding a train in this country – that is, PUSH!!! In fact, you start to consider that the banks in China, with all their “take a number and wait your turn while we flip slowly through all the numbers before yours even though there is literally no one else in the entire bank because that is our policy” attitude, could really stand to teach the medical profession a thing or two.
- There are at least 25 other people clustered in the tiny room that is the doctor’s “office”, all listening to everyone else’s consultations. I mean, it is a communist country, right? Everyone shares?
- Dealing with the patient before you, your doctor examines her tongue and feels the pulse in her wrist in order to diagnose her (traditional Chinese medicine, and let’s face it, kind of cool).
- Your doctor is perhaps the oldest man you have ever personally met in real life and yet he speaks English. Your amusement at this is tempered by the fact that at the end of your consultation, he asks for your phone number.
- Your doctor wears a white lab coat over shorts and flip flops (bonus points if the lab coat is buttoned and his shorts don’t stick out so when he walks past you do a double take to check that he is wearing some sort of bottoms).
- The biohazard bin near the doorway of your doctor’s “office” is overflowing with the stinky dredges of Chinese medicine tea.
- You are sent for ridiculously unnecessary tests (think an MRI for a suspected sinus infection and a CT scan for back pain) as a first recommendation. But on the bright side…
- You get in for those ridiculously unnecessary tests on the same day and receive the results the next day (sometimes even same day, depending on the time). They are also relatively cheap.
- While waiting for those tests, you wonder whether anyone with half a brain ever noticed that having the CT/MRI administration window, the double doors leading to CT and MRI scan rooms, a single door leading to a changing room, and the CT/MRI results pick-up desk all squished together within 10 feet of each other and in a corner was perhaps not a good idea in terms of traffic flow.
- Doctors, technicians, and perhaps even many nurses, do not work between noon and 3pm, which wouldn’t be quite so inconvenient except that they also do not work past 4:30pm. [Note to self: If I ever have an emergency, be sure to have it between 9am and noon or 3:00-4:30pm.]
- Your doctor’s second recommendation, before even seeing the results of the tests he sent you for and diagnosing you, and in fact even while stating he doesn’t think there is anything wrong, is that you should be admitted to the hospital.
And finally…
After spending the better part of two days at the hospital for tests and waiting to speak to doctors, they all conclude that nothing is wrong with your back, despite the fact that you are still in pain. On the third day, just have your husband take you to a traditional Chinese medicine clinic and get some really stinky medicinal patches to adhere to your back and belly for the next several weeks. Hope that they work, because they really are quite smelly!




That’s a great story and reminds me of a trip to the hospital in Chengdu. Hospitals are really desperate places in China. I hope you back feels better!
I don’t know if I feel them to be desperate. I don’t know exactly what I feel them to be…but sometimes they are necessary. I hope the back gets better too – I’m too young to feel this old!!
Ouch, hope your back gets better. It reminds me a few years ago when I woke up one morning and couldn’t move my neck at all without excruciating pain jutting out. After a few weeks and living with my head tilted 15 degrees it got better and disappeared. It was scary because it was so sudden and random, but haven’t encountered it again. Btw, happy Canada’s Day from a fellow Canadian.
Thanks! I really hope something works soon and this back pain goes away and stays gone!! I’m not a fan.
Ouch! Reading of the hassle can get you a back ache! Is this the typical picture of hospitals in China? Or only of the ones in Hebei and a few other places in China? Better than to use you mind to get rid of whatever is troubling your back. Anyway, here’s wishing you speedy recovery from the back ache.
It’s certainly different than elsewhere (but again, I will say that the speed of getting in for, and the results of, a major test like a CT scan or MRI is pretty impressive, and our western healthcare could learn a thing or two from that).
Since I haven’t ever been in a hospital anywhere else in China, I can’t definitively say whether this is common or not. I suspect it is pretty average for a basic hospital in these smaller cities, however, and I think a few other people have mentioned in the comments that they have had somewhat similar experiences. I’m sure that in the major cities, it more resembles what a westerner would be used to (with a much higher price tag as well, I’m sure).
Thanks for the get-well wishes!
Yikes. My only dealing with the hospital was to get my health check when I renewed my contract, and I was kind of amazed at how efficient, clean and modern everything was. Well, besides the creaky old X-ray machine which felt like something out of the 1950′s.
But I have heard some real horror stories from Chinese hospitals, and I’m really glad I haven’t had anything seriously go wrong with me. Fingers crossed nothing horrible happens in the next week before I leave!
Good luck with your back. I hope the stinky patches work!
Haha, the hospital we have to go to for our medical checks just got a new X-ray machine this year, but the EKG is pretty antiquated! And frankly, Sally, I’m amazed that what with your lung tumors you’ve developed here, that you haven’t spent much time in the hospital!
Sorry you had to go through all this and then having them tell you there is nothing wrong with your back. I had Liang take a look at your MRI and he said it is clear but you should go see a chiropractor. I know they are not too common in China but it would probably help; he said there is one in Pudong (Shanghai) although I know you are a bit far from there… Wishing you the best of luck and I hope you find something that works, even if it is the stinky patches!
Thanks, and thanks to Liang for taking a look. The second doctor did say there was something just a bit out of place and had me lay down on a table, placed his hand on my lower back, asked me to cough and then pushed. He claims he put whatever it was back into place, and it did feel much better initially. The problem was that I woke up in the middle of the night that night with almost the same amount of pain again. At this point, the pain is less than it was (which it did once before too) — but what I want is for it to be GONE!
I’m supposed to wear the smelly (and itchy, by the way) patches for at least two weeks. I’m trying to be optimistic.
Why do i keep thinking if you explored the hospital abit more you’ll find a room with a bone saw and a basin which the dub the operating room..but seriously,maybe you do need a chiropracter or a good massage?The none sleazy kind.
I was disturbed enough by the bug I saw scurrying across the doctor’s “office” floor – I plan to avoid any operating rooms as much as I possibly can. I do think a chiropractor might help, but we don’t really have any here. I’m nervous about a massage, because if there is something out of place, or even if there was, but it’s now back in, if they don’t know exactly what they are doing and are careful, they could make it worse. I’m giving the stinky patches a try – fingers are crossed!
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you may want to try “tui na” – it’s the medical massage. When I pinched something in my neck my Chinese colleagues kept recommending I try this one hospital. It was amazing. Two visits later I could turn my head and everything else- but the main massage/pressure he gave was on the inside of my elbow. I also have a Chinese friend who has back pain and he does acupuncture. He swears by it. Best of luck!
Interesting! I’m giving the smelly patches the benefit of the doubt and trying them, so we’ll wait and see. I hope they take care of whatever it is that’s wrong.
I’m one of those spoiled foreigners who live in a big city with fancy hospitals. However, I don’t have an insurance and can’t afford those modern clinics, so my hospital experiences are pretty similar to yours. I really love it when people in the waiting room are talking about me and guessing what disease I have, thinking I don’t understand Chinese. I think it’s actually good that the doctor’s exam room is filled with people and the door is open, and everyone can hear what the doc and I are saying. This way at least they’ll know what I have instead of guessing. Who knows what awful foreign diseases they think I might have!
Btw, thank you for your awesome blog! I just found it and am really enjoying your posts. I feel like I can totally relate to your stories. I live in Shanghai now, but I have lived in a small town in China, I’m close to your age and also married to a wonderful Chinese man. I can’t write a blog because I suck at writing, but I’m so glad to read yours. Linda
I’m glad you’re enjoying it and can relate! As for the hospitals, like I said, the orthopedic specialist was right next to the OB/GYN section, so I’m pretty sure a lot of the locals suspected I was there to have something “taken care of” and that my husband was actually some unlucky translator! I don’t understand most of what they say, nor did I really pay enough attention to them when I was there. I was just intent on trying to get some answers as to why my back has suddenly started hurting for no reason!
Ah, so you guy’s don’t have The Screen. Here in most hospitals, after you gua hao and wait in the waiting area, when it’s your turn they’ll not only shout your name but it appears on the screen too. Not just appears but blinks too! Along with your name they’ll be blinking your doctor’s name and department as well. Like: ” Mr. Zhang to the intestine and anal department to Dr. Wang”!
Oh no, this is still a “go and find your own doctor and wait in the hallways then push for your turn to see him” kind of place!
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